Extreme Urban Planning

Imagine a tiny island, merely 480 meters by 150 meters. Picture it housing 5,300 residents on this speck of land surrounded by endless sea. Completely concreted – high-rise reinforced concrete buildings for families, restaurants, bathhouses, and shops. The average apartment size was 9m², with one bathroom and kitchen per floor for 40 families. The island is encircled by a high concrete wall, shielding it from the sea’s whims. No trees, no greenery, no animals because there's no space for them.

Now, imagine that the island was abandoned overnight in 1974 and has been left to its own devices ever since. Nature slowly encroaches, reclaiming what was once hers. The high reinforced concrete buildings and the abandoned everyday items inside them deteriorate under the wind and rain, creating an almost unreal, post-apocalyptic landscape.

This island is Hashima (端島 – “End Island,” aptly named), and it’s no wonder it frequently appears in games, anime, and films. From "Skyfall" with James Bond, through the anime "Attack on Titan," to games like "Battlefield 4" and "Forbidden Siren 2." While Japan has no shortage of ghost towns (due to rural depopulation), a deserted city of this caliber, which was so extremely structured when inhabited, is a phenomenon on a global scale. Let’s explore what Hashima, the ghost island, is and where it came from!

 

 

Discovering the Battleship Island

Hashima, also known as Gunkanjima, is a small island located about 15 km southwest of Nagasaki, in Nagasaki Prefecture. The island is situated in the East China Sea and is one of 505 uninhabited islands in the region. From a distance, the island resembles a battleship, which gave it its popular name "Gunkanjima," meaning "Battleship Island" in Japanese.

To visit Hashima, tourists must join one of the organized tours that regularly depart from various locations in Nagasaki Port. The trip to the island takes about 30 minutes one way, and tours are available several times a day, depending on weather conditions. Due to the structural instability of the buildings on the island, sightseeing is only possible in guided groups.

The name Hashima is written in kanji: 端島. These characters can be translated as "End Island." "端" (hashi) means "end" or "edge," while "島" (shima) means "island." This name may refer to the island's location at the edge of the sea, making it seem isolated from the mainland. A "land at the end of the world," as one might interpret it.

The second name, Gunkanjima, is written as 軍艦島. The kanji "軍艦" (gunkan) means "warship," and "島" (shima/jima) again means "island." This name was given to the island because of its characteristic shape, which, from a bird's-eye view, resembles the silhouette of a battleship. The island was heavily built up with concrete buildings, which over time reinforced this comparison.

 

 

Description of Hashima Island

Hashima is a small island, 480 meters long and 150 meters wide. It is relatively small, but its history and unique features make it one of the most interesting places in Japan.
Hashima is known primarily for its abandoned buildings and concrete structures that dominate its landscape. There is virtually no vegetation on the island, giving it a stark, post-apocalyptic appearance. The high residential and industrial buildings that once housed thousands of miners and their families now stand empty and ruined, exposed to harsh weather conditions.

The island was intensively developed to accommodate as many people as possible in the limited space. It was home to a hospital, two schools, shops, and even a temple and shrine. At its peak, Hashima had the highest population density in the world, reaching about 1,391 people per hectare. This meant that residents lived in very cramped conditions, necessitating the construction of multi-story buildings with small apartments.

Hashima stands out among other ghost towns not only for its history but also for its unique architecture. It was one of the first places in Japan where large concrete residential buildings were constructed to withstand harsh weather conditions, including typhoons. The island's architecture, composed of tall, bunker-like concrete blocks, gave it a distinctive appearance that has inspired many works of popular culture.

 

 

History of Hashima Island

Early Beginnings

The history of Hashima as an inhabited island begins with the discovery of coal in the region. Coal was discovered on Hashima in 1810, and the first mining operations soon followed, conducted by local fishermen and small enterprises. The coal found on the island was of very high quality, attracting the attention of larger companies.

In 1887, the Fukahori family (深堀), who managed the local mines, decided to sell the island to Mitsubishi Corporation for 100,000 yen (at that time, this amount was equivalent to 75 kg of gold. Another comparison – the annual salary of a worker in Japan at that time was only a few hundred yen). This purchase was part of Mitsubishi's larger plan to develop the mining industry in the region. Under Mitsubishi's leadership, work began on building modern mining infrastructure, which allowed for intensified coal extraction.

 

 

Development of the Island

Under Mitsubishi's rule, Hashima quickly transformed into a coal mining hub. In 1895, a 199-meter vertical shaft was completed, followed by another in 1898. To increase the island's usable space, Mitsubishi began land reclamation, using slag from the mines to create new land areas. High protective walls were built around the island, giving it its characteristic battleship-like appearance.

In 1916, the first reinforced concrete residential building in Japan was constructed on Hashima. This four-story housing complex provided shelter for miners and their families. Over the years, more multi-story residential buildings, schools, hospitals, and other essential infrastructure such as shops, restaurants, temples, and shrines were built on the island.

Hashima was one of the first places in Japan where large concrete buildings were constructed. The 1916 construction aimed to protect residents from harsh weather conditions, including typhoons. This marked a significant moment in Japanese architecture, as previously wooden structures dominated, which were less durable and more prone to destruction. The following years saw the construction of even larger concrete structures to accommodate the island's growing population. These technological innovations were not only intended to improve residents' living conditions but also laid the foundation for future urban projects in Japan.

By the 1950s, the island's population reached around 5,300 people, making Hashima the most densely populated place on Earth. During this period, the island also boasted advanced technological amenities such as electric lighting and other conveniences, making it one of the most modern places in Japan.

 

 

 

The Dark History of Forced Labor

 

Hashima was no exception when it came to the brutal conditions of forced labor during World War II. By the time Japan surrendered in August 1945, around 1,300 laborers had died on the island due to accidents, illnesses from exhaustion and malnutrition, and suicides.

 

Suh Jung-woo, one of the Korean laborers, recalls being forced to work on Hashima along with other young Koreans. The conditions were extreme; workers toiled in cramped, dangerous underwater tunnels where gases accumulated, and ceilings threatened to collapse.

 

The Koreans were housed in crowded, filthy quarters and forced to work under constant supervision by guards. Workplace safety was practically nonexistent, and the bodies of deceased workers were cremated on the nearby island of Nakanoshima.

 

Suh Jung-woo, one of the few survivors, shared his traumatic journey to Hashima in a 1983 interview. As a boy, he was taken from his village, transported by truck, then by train to the port in Pusan, and finally by ship to Shimonoseki and train to Nagasaki. Suh, along with 300 other Koreans, was sent to Hashima, where he lost all hope of escape. Surrounded by the ocean, the island was a true prison, with overcrowded, deteriorating buildings and extremely harsh living conditions.

 

Suh recalls that workers were given uniforms resembling rice sacks and forced to work in inhumane conditions. The labor in the mines was exhausting and dangerous, with many workers dying from accidents or illnesses. Suh was convinced he would never leave the island alive, and these memories remain a testament to the brutality of those times.

 

Decline

Changes in the global economy and a decrease in demand for coal led to the gradual decline of the coal industry on Hashima. In the 1960s, Japan began shifting to more profitable energy sources, such as oil. Consequently, coal mines started to close one by one. On January 15, 1974, Mitsubishi announced the closure of the mine on Hashima. On April 20, 1974, the last resident left the island, leaving behind deserted buildings and infrastructure. Within a few months, the once-thriving island became a ghost town, exposed to harsh weather conditions.

Since then, Hashima has been abandoned, and its structures have gradually deteriorated. It wasn't until 2009 that the island was reopened to tourists, and in 2015, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Today, it is a popular tourist destination, attracting both history enthusiasts and fans of abandoned places exploration.

 

 

The Island's Condition After Abandonment

After the mine closed in 1974 and the residents left, Hashima was exposed to harsh weather conditions. Here’s how years of exposure have affected the island's appearance.

 

Fragility in the Face of Weather

Hashima is exposed to harsh weather conditions such as typhoons, storms, and strong winds, which have caused significant damage to the buildings' structures. The concrete buildings, once symbols of modern architecture and technology, have eroded and gradually decayed. The salty seawater and humid, tropical air have contributed to the corrosion of metal structural elements and the cracking and crumbling of concrete.

Many buildings are now in a state of ruin, with broken windows, crumbling facades, and destroyed roofs. The interiors of buildings are devastated, with abandoned furniture, household appliances, and other everyday items left in place when the residents left the island in a hurry.

 

The Ultimate Post-Apocalypse

Today, Hashima has a post-apocalyptic look that attracts tourists and filmmakers from around the world. The multi-story concrete buildings stand as dark monuments to the island's former glory. The view is both fascinating and terrifying, making the island a popular destination for fans of abandoned place exploration.

Due to the danger of collapsing structures, access to most buildings is prohibited. Tourists are allowed to explore the island only in designated, safe zones under the guidance of tour guides. Viewing the destroyed, empty buildings from observation decks allows one to imagine the scale of the destruction and the difficult conditions in which the former residents lived.

 

 

Residents Then and Now

Former Residents

Hashima was inhabited by miners and their families from the late 19th century until the mine closed in 1974. At its peak, the island's population reached around 5,300 people, making it the most densely populated place on Earth. Life on the island was intense and organized, with a clear division between industrial and residential areas.

For miners, the work was hard and dangerous. They descended daily by elevators into underwater tunnels where they extracted coal under difficult conditions. High temperatures, humidity, and the risk of tunnel collapses were common threats. Despite this, residents had access to many amenities that were rare in other parts of Japan at the time. The island had schools, a hospital, shops, restaurants, and even temples and shrines. Additionally, residents used modern appliances such as electric lighting, televisions, and later refrigerators and electric rice cookers (these were luxuries at the time).

The island also had public baths, a sports field (adapted to the available space), a cinema, and various entertainment venues, providing a relatively high standard of living compared to other places in Japan at the time. The island's buildings were dominated by multi-story concrete residential buildings. Residents lived in small, cramped apartments, often sharing communal bathrooms and kitchens. Despite the harsh conditions, the community was close-knit, and daily life was full of social and cultural activities.

A typical apartment on Hashima had an area of about 9.9 square meters (one room measuring six tatami mats) and consisted of a single room serving as a bedroom, living room, and dining room. Residents had access to communal bathrooms and kitchens, which served a large number of residents – one bathroom and kitchen for about 100 residents.

 

 

Residents of the Island Today

After the island was abandoned by people, the only permanent residents of Hashima became animals. The most well-known of these are the cats that were left behind by former residents. These cats have become icons of the island, adapting to the harsh environmental conditions. They are often seen by tourists visiting the island and add a unique charm to it.

Other forms of life are rare due to the lack of vegetation and extreme climatic conditions. Hashima, being largely a concrete structure surrounded by the sea, does not favor the development of rich fauna. Nevertheless, the island provides an interesting place to observe how nature slowly reclaims the area abandoned by humans.

 

 

Hashima in Popular Culture

 

"Skyfall" (film, 2012, dir. Sam Mendes)

"Skyfall" follows James Bond as he confronts the villain Raoul Silva. Hashima inspired the look of Silva's hideout, giving it a post-apocalyptic, stark character that highlighted the ominous nature of the place where the antagonist operated. Although the film crew couldn't shoot on the island due to unstable building structures, they visited Hashima to recreate its distinctive, post-apocalyptic architecture at Pinewood Studios. Hashima inspired the design of Silva's lair, which became one of the most memorable locations in the film.

 

"Attack on Titan" (anime, 2015, Hajime Isayama)

"Attack on Titan" tells the story of humanity fighting for survival in a world dominated by giant Titans. Although Hashima does not appear directly in the anime, its abandoned, industrial scenery, and atmosphere influenced the look and feel of the ruins in the series, creating a post-apocalyptic mood. The inspiration from Hashima for "Attack on Titan" was confirmed by Hajime Isayama, the creator of the manga. Isayama admitted that the architecture and atmosphere of abandoned Hashima inspired the design of Shiganshina, especially its densely built and dark areas. This city plays a crucial role in the anime's early episodes, where its ruined, desolate streets and buildings underscore the sense of danger and desperation.

 

"Forbidden Siren 2" (game, 2006, Sony)

"Forbidden Siren 2" is a survival horror game set on the fictional island of Yamijima. This island, like Hashima, is abandoned and filled with ruined buildings, creating a dark and mysterious atmosphere that references the real history of Hashima.

 

"Deadman Wonderland" (anime, 2011, Jinsei Kataoka)

"Deadman Wonderland" follows the story of Ganta Igarashi, who is wrongfully accused of mass murder and sent to a bizarre prison. The scenery in the anime, inspired by Hashima, reflects the starkness and dark atmosphere of the abandoned island, enhancing the post-apocalyptic mood of the series.

 

"Black Rain" (film, 1989, dir. Ridley Scott)

"Black Rain" is a crime film in which two New York City police officers must escort a Japanese criminal to Osaka. Hashima was used as one of the filming locations. Scenes shot on Hashima highlight the dark and dangerous atmosphere, and the abandoned buildings and industrial ruins perfectly capture the criminal underworld the protagonists must navigate. Hashima symbolizes abandonment and decay, contrasting with Osaka's bustling streets, creating a tense backdrop for the action and deepening the sense of isolation and struggle against crime in an unknown, hostile environment.

 

"Battleship Island" (film, 2017, dir. Ryoo Seung-wan)

"Battleship Island" is a film based on the true story of Korean forced laborers on Hashima during World War II. The film depicts the brutal working and living conditions on the island, with Hashima playing a central role as the backdrop for the dramatic events related to the struggle for freedom and survival.

 

"Hashima Project" (film, 2013, dir. Piyapan Choopetch)

"Hashima Project" is a horror film about a group of filmmakers who go to Hashima to shoot a documentary. The island inspired the creators to create an atmosphere of horror, using its abandoned buildings and dark history.

 

 

The Concrete Island: A Memory and an Inspiration

Hashima, once a bustling island, is now a fascinating example of how human endeavors can be left at the mercy of nature. Despite the harsh conditions, the residents created a close-knit community. Their relationships and memories are a testament to the strength of the human spirit and community. Kaji, a former resident, says, "Hashima was our home, even though it was surrounded only by concrete and the sea."

Today, Hashima attracts tourists and researchers from around the world. Thanks to its unique history and atmosphere, the island has become an inspiration for many works of popular culture. The ruins of buildings, deserted streets, and stark landscape create an incredible setting that stimulates the imagination and reminds us of a past full of challenges.

Hashima is also a symbol of the economic and technological changes that took place in Japan during the 20th century. The concrete buildings, once innovative architectural solutions, now stand as monuments of the past. The island's history shows how quickly living and working conditions can change and highlights the importance of remembering the past to understand the present and future. "Life here was harsh, but we had everything we needed," concludes Kaji, illustrating both the hardships and the beauty of life on Hashima.

 

 

Lastly, if you are interested, you can check the following site, where you can make a virtual stroll on Hashima Island:

 

hashima-island.co.uk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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